15 Quirky Things About Panama And Its People

Hey friends,

This is not meant to slam Panamanians, at all. I could list way more than 15 things that are odd about the U.S. and its people. Remember, my wife is Panamanian, so I have her to answer to if I get out of line. That said, I’ve noticed a lot of strange things since meeting Marlene and definitely since settling down in Panama full time. I can’t promise these are things you haven’t encountered wherever you’re living, because I probably know nothing about your hometown. I realized this after my last list, 10 Things You’ll Hate About Panama (which you can read by clicking here), when I received several comments from people about the motorcycles riding down the center lane subject. Apparently that happens all over the place, and is even legal in California. Who knew? I didn’t. 

So, check out this list of things I find a little bit wacky, but you might think is entirely normal. Again, these are in no particular order. I’m not counting down to the quirkiest thing. These are 15 wacky things listed at random.

1. Jury Duty Kidnapping – I’ve never been summoned to jury duty, but I know in the U.S. you’re given a letter or some sort of advance notice before you’re required to show up for duty. In Panama, it’s nothing like that. How did I learn this? A couple of weeks ago, I got a somewhat frantic call from Marlene. She was at work. The call went something like this.

“Chris, I only have a minute. They’re taking me.”

“WTF? Who’s taking you? What do you mean?”

“I have jury duty. They said I have 10 minutes to gather my things, make my phone calls, and then they’re taking my phone and I won't get it back until they're finished with me.”

And that was pretty much the extent of the phone call. She hung up and I had no idea what was to happen next. Was she going to be picked for a short trial that would be finished early and she'd be home by the end of the day? Or was she about to embark on an O.J. Simpson-style, seemingly never-ending murder trial?

My mother-in-law, who'd also spoken with Marlene, called to break it down a little further. She explained how lucky Marlene was because she’s had friends and coworkers who were out walking down the street when they were grabbed for jury duty. They were just snatched right off the sidewalk (ok, maybe it wasn't that dramatic, but still...). She also told me that if Marlene was stuck in a lengthy trial, we’d have to pack clothes so they could be taken to her.

It turned out the trial Marlene was involved with only lasted the day. She was home by about 11pm the same night. She told me she tried to get out of it by explaining that she had 4 kids she needed to take care of. The guy charged with finding my wife and bringing her in, the guy who basically kidnapped her for jury duty, simply looked at her and said, “Everyone has kids, and a spouse, and a grandmother...pack your stuff.”

Marlene was snatched up for jury duty, no notice, right at her office

That’s nuts, right? I'd love to see Dave Chapelle do a skit on this. The only thing worse would be having the guy show up, put a bag over your head, and yank you into his car. I'm surprised he didn't use the Men In Black memory swiper gadget on her when it was over. 

Imagine being a single parent and having this happen. What would you do? Can you imagine having your kids in school and having someone show up to tell you they were taking you away? What bout the kids? Marlene said you can get out of it, but you’ll have to pay a $50 fine and have a really good excuse. 

The good news? You always get the next day off when you're ordered to go in for jury duty. Also, I should add that this whole jury duty situation only applies to Panamanian citizens. So expats have nothing to worry about. 

2. Wrinkling the nose – The story of how I met my wife is one worthy of its own blog post, so here in this post, I’ll just mention one quirky little thing that a lot of Panamanians do. It’s something that caused a little bit of confusion when I first started dating Marlene.

I call it the wrinkling of the nose. The first time I saw this, I was driving. Marlene was in the passenger seat. I asked her a question. Probably something like, “What do you want to eat?” She didn’t answer. Ok, a little strange, but maybe she didn’t hear me. So I repeated it, “So what would you like to eat?” No answer again. I started thinking to myself, “What’s wrong with this chick?” I asked the question again, looked over, and noticed she was wrinkling her nose up, kind of the way a bunny rabbit does when it’s sniffing.

Apparently that means “What” in Panamanian non-verbal Spanish. When someone asks a question, you can ask, “What?” by simply looking at them and wrinkling up your nose.

This constipated look is my version of a bunny sniffing the air.

Not exactly what I was going for!

I tried to get a picture of the nose wrinkling, but it doesn't come out right in photos. I think I just look constipated, which is a totally different kind of non-verbal Spanish cue. 

3. No one gets out of his or her seat on a bus – If you move to Panama and travel by public transportation, you’ll notice that people do not get out of their seats unless they’re getting off the bus. They won’t get up for anything. For a long time, when I first moved here, I rode the bus to work. I’d hop on the old Diablo Rojo for $.25 each way.

Talking about this kind of bus, a Diablo Rojo

I rarely stayed in a seat though, either because there were none available, or when I did have a seat I’d get up to give it to a woman, someone elderly, or a small child. That’s just me. I can’t sit comfortably knowing someone else is roughing it. I’d see an older woman get on the bus, with her hands full of grocery bags, and not a single man would give up his seat.

See what I mean?

Another great example is, if you happen to be seated next to the window, and you need to get off the bus, the person next to you, in the aisle seat, will never get up and move out of the way. Instead, the person will lean his or her knees to the left, as if that’s enough room to walk through. I always laugh because I’m a big boy and I know they’re going to be more uncomfortable than I will be when I have to force my way through their legs. “Alright, man, you want my butt in your face? You asked for it!”

4. No shame – Alright, I have plenty of friends in the U.S., with very little shame. And I've been to other countries where the people don't seem to care at all what people think. But the men here have no shame. None at all. Guys in the U.S. might whistle or hiss at a girl, but most of the time that would come from construction workers. Men were craftier about their ogling eyes. They didn’t make it so obvious they were checking a girl out.

Here, it’s quite the opposite. I’m kind of a people watcher by nature. Maybe it’s my law enforcement/security background, but I tend to watch the things going on around me. So, one day while getting off the bus, a pretty girl was walking in front of me. I couldn’t believe how many men turned their heads and gawked at this girl as she passed. A security company was holding their morning roll call in a parking lot, and every single one of these guys, probably 20 of them, stopped and turned their heads to see her walk by.

This street performer stopped juggling to check out a passing woman

Women can be the same way. Of course I’m not talking about ALL Panamanian men or women, but I’ve encountered some gutsy women here too. At a Taco Bell drive-thru I had a girl say something about my blue eyes. Then she called over all of her coworkers to look at my eyes. I was embarrassed and just wanted to take my bean burrito and get out of there, lol. In one of the small towns here, right in front of my wife, a woman said, “If he were my husband, I would…”

No shame. 

5. Ketchup on Everything – I’ve seen some people do some crazy things with condiments. Hell, I used to love dipping my fries into my Wendy’s frosty. But a large number of Panamanians love ketchup. They’ll put ketchup on anything. I don’t know why I’m so surprised, since I grew up putting ketchup on my fried eggs and potatoes and on beans (it’s a country thing I guess).

However, here in Panama, people put ketchup on roasted chicken. They even put ketchup on their arroz con pollo. Rice and chicken? With ketchup on it? I might have to try that now that I think about it!

6. You want me to do what with my toilet paper? – I guess because of plumbing issues, and sometimes just out of fear of past plumbing issues, some Panamanians will not flush toilet paper down the toilet.

In the U.S., it was common to see signs in restaurant bathrooms warning people not to throw paper towels into the toilet. Paper towels can clog it up, but toilet paper is meant for the toilet.

The first time I ran into this issue was in a store bathroom. A sign was posted there warning people not to flush anything, even toilet paper, down the toilet. So I was kind of stumped. Like, “What would you like me to do with it then?” Then, I glanced over at the little wastebasket next to the toilet and saw that there was toilet paper in there, with doo doo smeared on it. That’s so gross, I know, but I need to paint a clear picture for you, lol.

The sign looks kinda like this

I was thinking, “You want me to do what with the toilet paper?” Since then, I’ve seen this at several business restrooms and even in a couple of people's homes. What’s perplexing is that the bathrooms never smelled bad. How is that possible? It must be terrific air freshener. Either that or my sinuses were acting up and I just couldn’t smell a thing.

7. No trust for lunchmeat – I love sandwiches. I love sandwiches of all types. Sometimes I like a hot sandwich and sometimes I’m in the mood for cold cuts. And by cold cuts I mean cold…cuts.

I’m not sure if this is something that only my wife’s family does, or if this is Panama-wide, but it’s very rare, and I mean very very rare, that my wife or anyone in her family will eat ham, turkey, or any other kind of lunch meat straight from the deli or right out of the package. They fry it all. And I don’t mean they fry it with oil. They just toss it around a little bit in a hot pan to kill any bacteria.

Marlene won't touch this stuff until it's been heated in a pan first

It drives me nuts because Brown Sugar Ham and Honeyed Turkey has a flavor that I like, and I like it right out of the package like that. When you cook it, it changes flavor. It’s not bad, it’s just different and sometimes I want that cold cuts taste. It took forever for me to get my wife to try Subway. She just didn’t trust the cold meats. Yet there are Subways all over Panama, so maybe it is just my wife’s family. Please, Panamanian friends, comment below to let me know how you feel about this.

8. The creation of traffic lanes -  This is something I love and loathe about driving in Panama. During times of high-traffic, Panamanians will create new lanes, usually on the shoulder of the road. I love this because it’s not something we’d do back home, and it does help free up the traffic congestion a little bit. I loathe it because I’m too chicken to follow suit. I’ve done it a few times, but usually I’ll stick with the designated lanes, because cheating never seems to work out for me.

This lane on the shoulder is only used during rush hour

(sorry for the crappy picture, I was in a moving vehicle)

One time, when I was late picking my kids up for school and was stuck in really bad traffic, I gave it a try. And when all the Panamanians were smart enough to merge back into the regular lane, I wasn’t, and I got trapped in that created lane, all the way until I was face to face with a traffic cop who harassed the hell out of me for about 15-minutes before finally letting me go (only after I pointed out everyone else who was doing the same thing).

9. Green olives – If you love green olives, you’ll be very happy here in Panama. I detest the things. I don’t mind black olives, but I can’t get used to the strange taste of green olives. I like olive oil though. What’s that all about?

Anyway, you’ll find that green olives show up in all kinds of dishes here. Most people put them in arroz con pollo. I have to pick them out whenever I’m at a birthday party and I’m served arroz con pollo with olives. You’ll even find them on pizza here. In the U.S., a veggie pizza seemed to consist of green peppers, onions, tomatoes, mushrooms, and maybe black olives. I never saw green olives on a pizza, except maybe at a gourmet pizza place.

Eww, green olives in arroz con pollo

Here, if you order a veggie pizza, there’s a pretty good chance it will come with green olives. I had to ask for them to be excluded from my Papa John’s pizza the other night. So, ask if your pizza has aceituna verde if you’re like me and don’t like green olives.

10. Prepare to get frisked – If you’re used to waltzing right into your local bank and making a deposit, get ready for things to change a bit. Outside of the banks, you’ll find a security guard waiting for you with a wand. Men will have the wand waved over their bodies, to make sure they aren’t trying to carry a weapon into the bank. Women aren’t usually wanded down like that, but they are required to open up their purse and let the security guard glance inside. He won’t put his hand in there or take anything out, but he will peek in. This goes for anyone with bags. Be prepared for the security guard to check out your shopping bags, backpack, etc.

These guys are just waiting to wand you down

This also happens at the casinos. During the day you might be able to just walk right in, but during high-traffic hours, and at night, men will be wanded and women will have their purses checked.

11. No shorts in government buildings – For being such a laid back, tropical lifestyle, Panama takes its dress code very seriously. You might get away with shorts and flip flops at the resorts and in the hotels, but don’t try to wear them into government buildings.

I remember the first time I went to the Immigration building here. I just needed to pay for something at the cashier desk. I had on shorts, a T-shirt, and tennis shoes. The security guard wouldn’t let me in the door. Even when I pointed at a woman wearing capris walking in right in front of me. My options were to go all the way home and change clothes, which would have required sitting through traffic again and searching for a parking spot, or go shopping. I walked to a department store, a block away, and bought the cheapest jeans I could find, for like $10, just to go into Immigration. The instant wedgie, and the strange discomfort of the material rubbing against my thighs, was worth getting in and out of the Immigration building quickly.

I can’t even wear shorts into my kids’ school. I’ve gotten used to wearing jeans everywhere I go, but one day I just happened to have on a pair of shorts, and the security guard wouldn’t let me enter to pick up my kids. Instead, they sent my kids out with someone.

12. Buses don’t always come to a complete stop – Let me quickly point out that, again, I'm talking about the old Diablo Rojo buses, some of which are still on the road. Back when I was riding the bus to work every day, I got used to the bus not coming to a complete stop for passengers to exit. Oftentimes, if only one or two people were getting off, the driver would step on the brakes just enough to bring the bus to a slow roll. Then the each person hops off at a slight jog so he doesn’t break his neck.

I think that guy just hopped off the bus

I watched one time as an older woman flipped out on the bus driver, yelling at him to stop the bus completely so she could exit safely. I thought the woman was going to hit him with her purse she was so mad.

Also, it’s common for buses to stop in the middle of traffic, not even at a designated bus stop, to let people on and off the bus. So if you ever get off the bus in one of these areas, make sure you watch for passing traffic. Just because the driver opens the door and lets you out, doesn’t mean he’s concerned for your safety.

13. Liquor Testers – This should be on a “greatest things about Panama” list. Almost every weekend, at my local Rey supermarket, a girl is set up in the liquor aisle serving some brand of rum. Free testers in the supermarket! That’s a hell of a way to shop, cruising up and down the aisles while sipping a rum and coke.

At PriceSmart, you might see several of these stands set up. Each one is almost like having a free shot. I’ve had a test cup of Bailey’s Irish Cream, walked a few steps and had a Vodka with cranberry, then a little Amaretto, then I threw up…kidding about the last part. It’s awesome though. Too bad I’m not really a hard liquor drinker. They should give out cups of beer. Come on Atlas, Balboa, Panama, Soberana…bring beer testing into the supermarkets.

14. The Ficha is everything – At my first job in Panama, at one of the call centers, there was a guy going through training with me, who was nuts about the ficha. I didn’t know what he was talking about. He kept asking the trainer, “When are we going to get our fichas?” Every day. "So when are we gonna get our fichas?" He was ficha crazy.

Finally, I asked, “What the hell is a ficha?” His reply? “It’s like gold, man. I need it so I can get a loan.”

Apparently, the ficha, which is just a piece of paper that proves you’ve been working, that you’re paying social security, and shows how much money you’re making, is given out monthly to anyone employed in Panama. That paper is quite useful when going to the free medical clinics, applying for a loan, or trying to rent an apartment. This guy from my training class wanted to buy a TV from one of the stores in town, or something like that, and needed his ficha to prove he was actually employed, so the store would extend him a line of credit.

It’s also something important to hold onto, to prove how much you’ve paid into social security, in case the records are wrong when you decided to retire.

So, if you ever work in Panama, don’t throw away your ficha!

15. Los Bien Cuidados - These are the guys who jump out in front of your car when you're about to park at a store or restaurant or anywhere else really. They hop in front of you (or behind you if you're leaving) and start waving their hands around, directing you into your spot (you might already be in the spot) as if they're a certified air traffic controller.

They take this job very seriously too. They really think it's their job. And they're very territorial. Once they claim a store or a spot, you won't see anyone else try to take it. And the funny thing is, they're always on time and stick around for a full shift, as if they're punching the clock. You'd think they were actually hired by the Super 99 supermarket you're pulling up to. And it's a good idea to give them some change, if you don't want to get cursed out, or have trouble the next time you come to the area. 

The other night, I went shopping for school lunch stuff with Marlene. We pulled into the parking lot, not a soul in sight. We got what we needed and left. On the way to our car, this guy starts talking to me, in English, about how he grew up in New York. He was friendly, but it was awkward because he followed us all the way to our car and I knew what he was doing. He was going to try to direct us out of our spot. I was in a bad mood that night too, so when I got to the car, I just backed up and left. He wasn't even there when I arrived, it was about 10pm and I'm fully capable of backing out of a half-empty parking lot, without assistance, so I wasn't going to pay this guy just for being around. Hopefully my car won't get keyed the next time I park there, lol. 

This happens a lot in the nightclub/casino areas too. I parked on a street that was a couple of blocks away from a casino one night and this guy ran up to me and told me I needed to pay him $2 to park there. It was on a public street. I said, "When I come back." He insisted that I pay him right then, which I wasn't going to do, since I was sure he'd be gone and someone else would be there when I got back, wanting his $2. I decided to just use the casino valet, where I knew I could pay $1 and not be bothered. 

So that was 15 things you might find a little bit wacky about Panama and its people. This wasn’t meant to be rude or degrading to anyone. It was just for fun, so please, no crazy rants and raves about how I should go back to my own country if I don’t appreciate this one. I love Panama and its people…and its somewhat quirky ways.

Thanks for reading,

Chris

As always, please don't forget to check out http://www.PanamaForReal.com 

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Monday Q and A, Yacht Communities, VA Disability, Racism, and Much More About Panama

Good afternoon, friends, 

Hopefully you're not too hung over after your Super Bowl party. I just want to say thanks again for all the support we're getting. It's truly amazing, and the emails keep coming in, making the Monday Q and A easy to put together (not so easy to answer sometimes, lol). 

You've probably noticed that I don't do the Q and A every Monday. A lot of that has to do with collecting enough questions and it also has to do with workload. If it's a week that I'm putting together a PFR Location Report or a Kidpats video, I sometimes have to put off the Monday Q and A. So, it's kind of turned into an every other Monday thing. 

If you haven't listened tuned in to The Breakfast Show with Gerry D. on Panama's 89.3 Cool FM, you definitely should. I've been on the show twice and I'm going back this Friday. I'll be on at 9:15am, but the show runs from 7am-10am. If you have a hard time catching the live show, you can always go to www.pbcpanama.com, click on the tab that says "This Week", then click on the day of the show you're interested in, then click the picture of the set of headphones. That'll open up a media player you can use to listen to the show. 

Well, let's get started with the questions:

Yazmin, from The Breakfast Show told me about the following event, which is a really important one, and I'd like to share it here:

This is a serious call for help, with an event that should be rockin' as well. The Balboa Rock Fest has joined in the cause for Sebastian Pitti. This little baby boy, only 78 days old when this was posted, suffers from hydrocephalus, and needs an operation that has to be performed in a private hospital, and insurance is refusing to cover it. The total costs seem to be about $15,000. If you're able to donate to this cause, the account number is 04-71-17-016552-0 at Banco General, in the name of Sebastián Gabriel Pitti. 

Here's the Facebook page of the Balboa Rock Fest: https://www.facebook.com/BalboaRockFest and the website: http://www.balboarockfest.com/. Entrance to the show is free. 

Richard wrote (via email):

"First, thanks for the good information you give, it is helpful. Just wondering, what is the boating community like on the Caribbean side? I've lived on my 47' catamaran for the past 11 years. The beauty of this lifestyle is...if you don't like where you are, pick up the anchor and move!

"The cost of living is less, as is the hassle at times. But the up side is always much better. You always have a water-front view, and you can take your home out with you when you want. Don't need to pack a bag and deal with airports and such. Just my way of living!

"If you could share some incite as to where to have the boat anchored and safety would be most helpful. Thanks for taking the time to read this!"

I replied:

"Hey Richard, thanks for checking out the website and for writing. I'm not all that familiar with the yachting communities here in Panama, but I gathered some info for you.

"The last time I visited Portobelo, which is on the Caribbean side, maybe 2 years ago, I stopped by a place called Captain Jack's Hostel. Captain Jack is an American running a great business in town. He's a very nice guy too. His whole staff was cool.

Marlene in Portobelo

"I interviewed Jack and he told me all about the yacht community that was growing out in the bay. He said every morning he gets on the radio and says good morning to the boat captains, oftentimes inviting them in to use his facilities, to have coffee, or to grab lunch at his restaurant. He could probably tell you more about that community off the coast of Portobelo. 

"His website is: http://www.hostelportobelo.com/

"The Balboa Yacht Club on the Amador Causeway (not the Caribbean side) is probably a great source of information as well. The only website I found was for the BYC in California. I did find this Facebook page for the BYC Panama. 

Out near the Balboa Yacht Club

"That group would probably be a great source of information and it's an open group. The actual Balboa Yacht Club on the Amador Causeway is going through renovations right now, I think. 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/191493204915/

"Lastly, while trying to find a good answer to your question, I came across the following website, which is excellent. It lists all the marinas, many on the Caribbean side. This one is definitely worth checking out.

http://yachtpals.com/cruising/panama

"I can imagine your lifestyle being one hell of a fun ride. No worries, no stress...just pick up and go. That's awesome, brother. I hope some of this helps!"

Bob wrote (via email):

"I can't thank you enough for you and your wonderful family and the down to earth no-nosense boots on the ground perspective.

"I hope to visit this May if business allows. I'm very much interested in at first semi-retiring in Panama with the intent to extend that more Panama then south Florida as i get older. When we arrive, we will want to look at buying something and also look at investing in a business concept we're excited about.

"For our first purchase, I would prefer something about an hour out of the main city probably beach front living with hopefully an hour drive to cooler elevations. I would much appreciate your recommendations. Also not sure if you can provide this service (no problem if fees are involved)but we would like to meet a truly knowledgeable real estate agent as well as an attorney to establish a foundation and IBC corp. so we open a bank account.

"Chris thanks again and we look forward to meeting you and your lovely family when we come to visit for our first time."

I replied:

"Hi, Bob, and thanks so much for checking out our website and for taking the time to send your email. That's great and it's what makes this whole thing work. My wife smiled from ear to ear when you wrote the part about our 'wonderful family.' Thank you for that. 

"It sounds like you've got a great plan, with the semi-retiring, going back and forth from South Florida to Panama.  

"If you're looking for something about an hour from the city, on the beach, but with quick access to higher elevations, I'd have to recommend either Coronado (which is the most expat-friendly, move-in ready location, but can be a little bit costly) or its surrounding towns, like Chame, Punta Chame, Gorgona, or San Carlos. They're all very close to Coronado, which would allow you to use Coronado's restaurants, supermarkets, and other amenities easily. Santa Clara and that area could be a possibility, but it's a little farther away, maybe an hour and a half outside the city. 

The beach at Santa Clara

"This whole stretch would allow you to go up to the higher elevation towns/neighborhoods of Altos del Maria, El Valle de Anton, or even just up to La laguna, which is supposed to be a very nice lake to hang out at, up in the higher elevation area above Coronado, just above Las Lajas). 

"So you're doing good so far. You know how far you want to be from the city and you know that you want to be on a beach, but still near the mountains. You have quite a few choices now. I'm not sure how specific to your needs the relocation tours are, but it's worth checking into them. Or just come here, rent a car, and stop off at each beach town I mentioned. They're all one after the other on the Pan-American Highway. 

"I'll email you privately to get you in touch with a real estate expert and an attorney.

"I hope this info helps, Bob. And thanks again for your great email and kind words." 

Art wrote (via email):

"I just stumbled upon your site tonight and it is just what I've been looking for.  I've lived off and on in Panama for six years, leaving the last time in 1999.  My Panamanian wife and I are planning to return this December to retire for good.  With my military retirement and my VA disability, we should be fairly comfortable (hopefully!)."

"We are planning on living somewhere in Cocle - renting at first, and then buying a place. We are coming down next month to check out some properties and visit her family.  A couple of questions if I may:  

"What did you not bring with you from the States that you now wish you had?  What did you bring with you that you wish you had left at home?  Did you ship a vehicle?  Do you plan a report on El Valle de Anton anytime soon?  That is one of the places we are considering as well as La Pintada and Altos del Maria.

  

"Well done on your site!  Very nice setup - you can tell you've put a lot of time and effort into it."

I replied:

"Hi Art, sounds like you guys should be starting off on the right foot with your retirement and disability. By the way, if you have VA disability (you probably already know this) but you'll need to apply for FMP (Foreign Medical Program) in order to be able to see some of the doctors here who handle VA disability. FMP will send you a form listing your disabilities, and that lets the doctors know they can go ahead, treat you, and bill the VA for service. I go to a great clinic who can help you get that process started. And the clinic also handles Tricare if you're still enrolled. You can even set up a PO Box through them, to have packages shipped to a Miami address and brought to Panama for you. Here's the link to their website. Under affiliates you'll see all of the different pharmacies/offices. As a retired military member, this is some of the most valuable info you'll get your hands on:  http://healthalliance.com.pa/

"This is the first military related question I've had, so I thought I'd share that now. 

"Okay, now...on to your questions.

"What I wish I brought with me? I didn't bring our Dodge Grand Caravan with us because we were still making payments on it. And you can't ship a vehicle that isn't completely paid off. I miss that van and its Knight Rider doors (you know the ones that open and close on their own with just the push of a button). 

"Other than that, I only miss family and goofy things like some of the food. I miss Boston Market, and any Mongolian Barbecue chain. I miss shopping at Target. But as far as actual physical items go, I can get almost everything I need here, or by ordering online. 

Marlene was freezing in El Valle, at night, without a jacket

"I guess I do wish we would've brought some of our jackets. We had really nice cold weather gear and we either gave it all away or donated it before leaving. We knew we wouldn't need it here. In some towns, like Boquete and El Valle de Anton, it gets chilly in the evenings. Plus, you never know when you, a family member, or a friend will be traveling back to the U.S. (or any other country) and a jacket might come in handy. So...bring at least a coat or two. You never know when you might need it. 

"What I wish I would have left behind? This is a tough one. I've been here almost 5 years, and when I first moved here I shipped my belongings. Now, 5 years later, I barely have anything that I brought with me. I just got sick of my things and gave them away. 

"I'm planning to write a post, really soon, about whether or not you should bring your stuff with you or just start fresh and buy everything new. I was definitely glad when my container arrived and everything I was familiar with showed up. It helped make me feel a little more at home. But it ended up costing around $7,000 to get it here. Could I have bought most of that stuff new with the $7,000? I don't know. I'll write about it soon and try to figure it out. 

"One thing you should keep in mind if you are planning to ship your belongings is that most homes here do not come with appliances. You'll find only bare walls. I shipped everything except my appliances because I figured it'd be easier to sell the house without gaping holes in the kitchen. So I did have to buy all of my appliances here in Panama.

"Did I ship a vehicle? No, I didn't. But many people do, and I think, depending on what area you decide to settle down in, that could be the one thing you wish you'd left behind. It really depends on your lifestyle though. I think if I were single (or just married with no kids) and I lived in the El Cangrejo area of Panama City, I'd rather not have a car. It's easy to get around by bus and taxi and finding parking in the city is a real pain. 

"You mentioned going to Cocle though, and that's a whole different story. Out there, you'd probably want a car, as that town is very spread out. Penonomé is a great place, but I'm not sure I'd want to try living there without a car. 

"Will I cover El Valle de Anton? Yes, absolutely. I definitely plan on covering El Valle. I'm hoping to get out there soon. It's a fun place to visit and a great place to live. You mentioned Altos del Maria and La Pintada, which are both supposed to be gorgeous, so I'll be heading their way soon too.

We had a blast the last time we were in El Valle de Anton

"Thanks again for your kind words, Art. I really do appreciate it."

Kerry wrote (via email):

"Hi Chris. Maybe this could be for the next Monday Q&A. I think I read somewhere in the site that when you moved over there you shipped a container of personal items. Could you possibly give us some details, like how you found the transport company, cost, etc? I think a lot of your readers would love to know. Thanks."

I replied:

"Hi Kerry, I did move a container full of my belongings, but that was almost 5 years ago. And it was such a whirlwind time of my life, as a move like this can be for most people. I honestly don't remember how I started researching a moving company. 

"I think I tried the bidding wars kind of websites where companies offer their services and you compare prices, which you have to be very careful about, as going with the lowest bidder is definitely not always the best plan. I did a bunch of research and somehow ended up using a company called Hercules at http://www.herculesvanlines.com/, which did its part in Ohio and all through the U.S., but once our stuff got to Panama, it was handled by a company called Panama International Packers http://www.ptypackers.com/. 

"I've heard that you're better off choosing a company in Panama and letting them find their U.S. connection (or Canadian or wherever else). Because it's the Panama side that'll understand how to get things into this country. 

A container ship making its way through the Panama Canal

"I remember paying around $7,000 total, maybe a little more, to complete the process. That was for the 30-foot container. I packed my own stuff though and then let the movers pack a few fragile things (or things I didn't pack well enough myself). In Columbus, Ohio, two guys showed up to finish packing and move everything out. They did it all (a two-story, 3-bedroom house) in one day. Usually, if they have to pack all your stuff (which is probably best if you can afford it as they'll know how to pack everything safely, and they'll supply the boxes and everything), it'll take them at least 2 days (one day to pack and one day to move). 

"I think it took almost two months to receive our belongings. It seemed like the container arrived in Panama fairly quickly, but then there was some sort of strike down at the ports, and no containers were being offloaded. I think we had to wait a week or two more just because of the strike. 

"I wish I could be more specific with all this, but it's just been so long since I moved, back before I ever considered writing about Panama."

Keith wrote (via comments on the PFR site):

"Hey Chris. I wonder if you could give a price listing for San Blas. That would be the ideal place for us."

I replied: 

"I'll definitely be headed to San Blas at some point, but I haven't been in a rush to get there because San Blas isn't a realistic retirement option. It's more like a vacation spot. You can't buy land in San Blas or open a business there, and from what I've heard, you can't even rent long term. 

"It's protected land, protected by the Kuna Yala indians. They don't mind people stopping by for a visit, and I've heard it's very beautiful, but it's not a place you should consider moving to. 

"Just move to Pedasi and take a boat over to Isla Iguana everyday. That would be cool."

Ernie wrote (via email): 

"Hello Chris, I am a 63 year old African American Nurse, considering relocating to Panama for retirement. I am single, I am not rich, and I don’t have a house to sell before moving there. I am willing to live like a Native.

"I guess what I’m asking of you is, is it safe for me? I noticed that when I communicate with an expat and they find out I’m Afro American, they try to discourage me. I don’t want to go over there and be mistreated. I can stay here and do that.

"I’ve read your wonderful blog and I think financially I can live there (in the right location) even though it would be tight. But I have to feel safe and feel welcomed. Right now I’m considering Chitre.

"I trust you will be honest with me and tell me if Panama is for me."

I replied:

"Hi Ernie, thanks for reaching out to me. Yes, of course Panama is great for you, or I should say it can be, you may not like it at all. I have a good friend who's African American. He's an ex-military guy and he's doing fine here (he does have retirement income though). You'll find a lot of African American, and black Panamanian people living here. I wouldn't think skin color would be an issue at all.

"Chitre is a great place. I like it a lot. You'll find some fast food restaurants there and a small theater…so you're not as cut off from the world as you'd be in some other places. 

Cruising Chitre's main drag

"Now, I know I wrote that skin color shouldn't be an issue, and I really don't think it is, but the truth is, there is racism here, just like everywhere else. I've noticed there's a little bit of racism going on between the lighter skinned Panamanians and the darker skinned. I've heard nicknames like "fulo" or "fula," which basically means blonde, passed around. YeYe (I think I'm spelling that right) is kind of a teasing name that means rich person, or like spoiled rich. My wife's coworkers used to call her "YeYe" when she'd bring in a nice bottled water brand or a strange soda from Riba Smith that no one had seen before. Of course, they were just joking with her.

"You'll also notice that terms are accepted here that you would never hear in the U.S. Most of the mini-supermarkets are run by Chinese business owners and you'll hear Panamanians walk into the store and yell, 'Hey China (like cheena), where's the soap?' Or, 'Hey China, how much does this cost?' Or, even worse because it means like little Chinese person, you might hear, 'Hey Chinito, how much does this cost?' The stores are referred to as chinos or chinitos by most people. But most Panamanians don't mean to be derogatory, it's just become an accepted term.

"So racism happens here, but it's not a big deal. I see a military related doctor here, and I think I'm the only white patient he has. Every time I go, I see a group of older African American guys, all of which speak English. Nice guys. I think most of them were either stationed here when the base was open, and came back because they love it, or were born in the canal zone. So, I wouldn't worry too much about the racism thing. And Chitre is a pretty big town. Eventually I'll head down to that area to write about it.

"You should definitely visit Panama first and make sure it's right for you. You'll get a gut feeling. Everyone does. Either you'll say, 'Yep, this is excellent.' Or you'll say, 'I'm not too sure, better look somewhere else.'" 

Lisa wrote (via comments on PFR site):

"Hi Chris. I'm wondering if dental work is affordable in Panama. My children are adults now and I am divorced and struggling to pay the many expenses of living in Connecticut.

"I wonder how realistic it would be for me to stay a month or longer in Panama and start some dental work (I don't speak Spanish).

"Advanced thanks, so glad I found your blog!"

I replied:

"Hi Lisa, excellent question. Aside from regular cleanings, which typically cost somewhere around $20, I haven't had to do any major dental work here in Panama. So, I have no first-hand experience with those costs. I know that it's supposed to be a lot more affordable here than back in the U.S. though. 

Like in Penonomé, even small towns usually have a dentist

"A blogger, and friend, Kris C. at www.ThePanamaAdventure.com wrote a great post about her husband's trip to the dentist at: http://blog.thepanamaadventure.com/2013/01/10/a-trip-to-the-dentist/

"Click on the link to read all about it. She covers how meticulous the doctor was and tells you the total costs associated with the procedure. Thanks so much for your comment and I hope it all works out for you (at a fraction of the cost) down here in Panama."

Robert wrote (via comments on the PFR site): 

"Which beaches have white sand?"

I replied:

"Hey Robert, you won't find a tone of them in Panama. Most of the Caribbean side will offer white beaches, but the places I can name off the top of my head are Bocas del Toro, San Blas, Contadora (the Pearl Islands), Isla Grande, Santa Clara, Isla Taboga, and the beaches around Pedasi (Playa Venao, Playita, Isla Iguana). I'm sure I'm missing plenty, but those are some of the most popular. Coronado has kind of a cool mix of white and black sand."

Jade wrote (via comments on the PFR site):

"Hello, so glad I found your blog! I'm a teacher in the U.S. and want to move to Panama with my 2-year-old son. I lived in Mexico before and loved it, but don't feel safe there currently. What is the reality of finding work to support my son and I in Panama? Is it 'single mother friendly?' Thank you so much!"

I replied:

"Hi Jade. So glad you found our site. If you survived down in Mexico, you should be fine down here. If you're a teacher, and you have your certification papers, or proof of your degree, that kind of stuff, you should be fine. Panamanian schools seem to always be searching for teachers, all over the country. Especially if you're comfortable teaching English.

"Most of the larger schools, especially the international ones, will require that you have the work license, which might be the somewhat tricky part for you, but it's not all that complicated, especially if you speak with an attorney who handles Immigration issues. One of the newer visas created by the Panamanian government to entice workers to come to Panama makes it a little easier. I can get you in touch with a great attorney if you'd like. Just let me know.

"As far as Panama being 'single mother friendly.' I think you'll be just fine, especially if you move to one of the more expat-friendly areas. I'm not sure if you're wanting to live in the city, but, as I've mentioned many times, Coronado, out in the interior and on the beach, would probably be perfect for you because there are 3 international schools in the vicinity and a lot of expats are already calling the place home. There, maybe Boquete, and of course parts of the city would make sense for you."

Stephana wrote (via comments on the PFR site):

"So, we are planning to venture to Panama to live. My youngest, 9 months, has absolutely no vaccinations of any kind and my 7-year-old had his first round done. I myself haven't had vaccinations since I was a child. Is it required to have all these vaccinations for my children to live in Panama? Not too worried about the school system; thinking about Homeschool rather."

I replied: 

"Hi Stephana. Honestly, you're supposed to get thee vaccines, but many people don't. I think the schools want you to have your children vaccinated, but they don't check your shot records. You have to get a medical form signed off by a doctor, and it's supposed to be the doctor who checks the shot records. 

"Oftentimes, the doctors don't even check it. Most doctors, as far as my experience with this has gone, will see your child and sign off on the form rather quickly. It's all just a formality, part of the process. And if you're going to homeschool your children, I wouldn't even worry about it. 

Matteo would be totally cool with never getting another vaccine...ever

(BTW, he gave me permission to use this photo)

"When you take your kids to the pediatrician, they might ask to see your shot records just to make sure your kids are up to date, but other than that, you probably won't hear much about the vaccinations. It's not like you'll be audited at home or reported by the doctor or anything."

Sarge wrote (via comments on the PFR site, after reading the bargain shopping article):

"Loved the read and those are my kind of shops. Why pay 15 dollars for a 10 dollar pair of jeans? Any dollar stores there, or similar selling items cheaply?" 

I replied:

"Exactly, Sarge. Yes, you'll find some dollar stores, but just like in the U.S., most of them sell a bunch of stuff that isn't quite a dollar. Here, the main dollar store is called Todo A Dolar, but todo ain't a dollar, lol. You'll find a lot of Chinese stores selling cheaper items too."

The Todo a Dollar in Aguadulce

Mia wrote (via comments on the PFR site):

"We're just moving in to the new area near Vacamonte, and are renting an unfurnished house. We only need the basics, and would much rather buy furniture from a cheaper place than Westland Mall or other malls. Do you know if there's anything near Vacamont, or do we have to go to Panama City to find furniture? We'd love to check local crafts people, but really need just the basics like a bed and a few tables to begin with." 

I replied:

"Hi Mia, I honestly don't know a lot about the Vacamonte area. I'll try to help the best I can, and if any readers are living in that area, feel free to help out in the comments below.

Hard to see in this photo (but on the road to Volcan you see a lot 

of handcrafted furniture for sale alongside the road

"I know there's a furniture store at Los Pueblos that's supposed to be fairly affordable, but that's here in the city. It's called Econo Precios. Here's a link to their website: 

http://econoprecios.squarespace.com/#muebles

I just did a quick search for mueblerias (furniture stores) in Arraijan and here's the list I found. I've been to the Rodelag near my house and they do have some furniture, usually just office stuff though like tables and desks, but it's worth checking out. Here's that list: 

http://www.paginasamarillas.com.pa/busqueda/muebles-arraijan

Also, I'm not sure if you'd go for something used, but a good idea is to look on encuentra24 http://www.encuentra24.com/panama-en/classifieds. You'll usually find people selling all sorts of things there. Or look in the Facebook groups https://www.facebook.com/groups/313230052138979/ and https://www.facebook.com/groups/superofertaspanama/. There's a glass table with chairs going for $50 on there right now." 

Well, that's it for this Q and A session. Thanks for reading and I hope some of this helped.   

If you haven't already, check out our new website at www.PanamaForReal.com. It has a ton of info and enter your email address into the field below the red suitcase (in the top right corner of the page) to start receiving our bi-weekly newsletter. 

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Thanks for reading,

Chris