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Monday, February 3, 2014

Monday Q and A, Yacht Communities, VA Disability, Racism, and Much More About Panama

Good afternoon, friends, 

Hopefully you're not too hung over after your Super Bowl party. I just want to say thanks again for all the support we're getting. It's truly amazing, and the emails keep coming in, making the Monday Q and A easy to put together (not so easy to answer sometimes, lol). 

You've probably noticed that I don't do the Q and A every Monday. A lot of that has to do with collecting enough questions and it also has to do with workload. If it's a week that I'm putting together a PFR Location Report or a Kidpats video, I sometimes have to put off the Monday Q and A. So, it's kind of turned into an every other Monday thing. 

If you haven't listened tuned in to The Breakfast Show with Gerry D. on Panama's 89.3 Cool FM, you definitely should. I've been on the show twice and I'm going back this Friday. I'll be on at 9:15am, but the show runs from 7am-10am. If you have a hard time catching the live show, you can always go to www.pbcpanama.com, click on the tab that says "This Week", then click on the day of the show you're interested in, then click the picture of the set of headphones. That'll open up a media player you can use to listen to the show. 

Well, let's get started with the questions:

Yazmin, from The Breakfast Show told me about the following event, which is a really important one, and I'd like to share it here:



This is a serious call for help, with an event that should be rockin' as well. The Balboa Rock Fest has joined in the cause for Sebastian Pitti. This little baby boy, only 78 days old when this was posted, suffers from hydrocephalus, and needs an operation that has to be performed in a private hospital, and insurance is refusing to cover it. The total costs seem to be about $15,000. If you're able to donate to this cause, the account number is 04-71-17-016552-0 at Banco General, in the name of Sebastián Gabriel Pitti. 

Here's the Facebook page of the Balboa Rock Fest: https://www.facebook.com/BalboaRockFest and the website: http://www.balboarockfest.com/. Entrance to the show is free. 

Richard wrote (via email):


"First, thanks for the good information you give, it is helpful. Just wondering, what is the boating community like on the Caribbean side? I've lived on my 47' catamaran for the past 11 years. The beauty of this lifestyle is...if you don't like where you are, pick up the anchor and move!

"The cost of living is less, as is the hassle at times. But the up side is always much better. You always have a water-front view, and you can take your home out with you when you want. Don't need to pack a bag and deal with airports and such. Just my way of living!

"If you could share some incite as to where to have the boat anchored and safety would be most helpful. Thanks for taking the time to read this!"

I replied:


"Hey Richard, thanks for checking out the website and for writing. I'm not all that familiar with the yachting communities here in Panama, but I gathered some info for you.

"The last time I visited Portobelo, which is on the Caribbean side, maybe 2 years ago, I stopped by a place called Captain Jack's Hostel. Captain Jack is an American running a great business in town. He's a very nice guy too. His whole staff was cool.

Marlene in Portobelo

"I interviewed Jack and he told me all about the yacht community that was growing out in the bay. He said every morning he gets on the radio and says good morning to the boat captains, oftentimes inviting them in to use his facilities, to have coffee, or to grab lunch at his restaurant. He could probably tell you more about that community off the coast of Portobelo. 


"The Balboa Yacht Club on the Amador Causeway (not the Caribbean side) is probably a great source of information as well. The only website I found was for the BYC in California. I did find this Facebook page for the BYC Panama. 

Out near the Balboa Yacht Club

"That group would probably be a great source of information and it's an open group. The actual Balboa Yacht Club on the Amador Causeway is going through renovations right now, I think. 


"Lastly, while trying to find a good answer to your question, I came across the following website, which is excellent. It lists all the marinas, many on the Caribbean side. This one is definitely worth checking out.


"I can imagine your lifestyle being one hell of a fun ride. No worries, no stress...just pick up and go. That's awesome, brother. I hope some of this helps!"

Bob wrote (via email):

"I can't thank you enough for you and your wonderful family and the down to earth no-nosense boots on the ground perspective.

"I hope to visit this May if business allows. I'm very much interested in at first semi-retiring in Panama with the intent to extend that more Panama then south Florida as i get older. When we arrive, we will want to look at buying something and also look at investing in a business concept we're excited about.

"For our first purchase, I would prefer something about an hour out of the main city probably beach front living with hopefully an hour drive to cooler elevations. I would much appreciate your recommendations. Also not sure if you can provide this service (no problem if fees are involved)but we would like to meet a truly knowledgeable real estate agent as well as an attorney to establish a foundation and IBC corp. so we open a bank account.

"Chris thanks again and we look forward to meeting you and your lovely family when we come to visit for our first time."

I replied:

"Hi, Bob, and thanks so much for checking out our website and for taking the time to send your email. That's great and it's what makes this whole thing work. My wife smiled from ear to ear when you wrote the part about our 'wonderful family.' Thank you for that. 

"It sounds like you've got a great plan, with the semi-retiring, going back and forth from South Florida to Panama.  

"If you're looking for something about an hour from the city, on the beach, but with quick access to higher elevations, I'd have to recommend either Coronado (which is the most expat-friendly, move-in ready location, but can be a little bit costly) or its surrounding towns, like Chame, Punta Chame, Gorgona, or San Carlos. They're all very close to Coronado, which would allow you to use Coronado's restaurants, supermarkets, and other amenities easily. Santa Clara and that area could be a possibility, but it's a little farther away, maybe an hour and a half outside the city. 

The beach at Santa Clara

"This whole stretch would allow you to go up to the higher elevation towns/neighborhoods of Altos del Maria, El Valle de Anton, or even just up to La laguna, which is supposed to be a very nice lake to hang out at, up in the higher elevation area above Coronado, just above Las Lajas). 

"So you're doing good so far. You know how far you want to be from the city and you know that you want to be on a beach, but still near the mountains. You have quite a few choices now. I'm not sure how specific to your needs the relocation tours are, but it's worth checking into them. Or just come here, rent a car, and stop off at each beach town I mentioned. They're all one after the other on the Pan-American Highway. 

"I'll email you privately to get you in touch with a real estate expert and an attorney.

"I hope this info helps, Bob. And thanks again for your great email and kind words." 

Art wrote (via email):

"I just stumbled upon your site tonight and it is just what I've been looking for.  I've lived off and on in Panama for six years, leaving the last time in 1999.  My Panamanian wife and I are planning to return this December to retire for good.  With my military retirement and my VA disability, we should be fairly comfortable (hopefully!)."

"We are planning on living somewhere in Cocle - renting at first, and then buying a place. We are coming down next month to check out some properties and visit her family.  A couple of questions if I may:  

"What did you not bring with you from the States that you now wish you had?  What did you bring with you that you wish you had left at home?  Did you ship a vehicle?  Do you plan a report on El Valle de Anton anytime soon?  That is one of the places we are considering as well as La Pintada and Altos del Maria.
  
"Well done on your site!  Very nice setup - you can tell you've put a lot of time and effort into it."

I replied:

"Hi Art, sounds like you guys should be starting off on the right foot with your retirement and disability. By the way, if you have VA disability (you probably already know this) but you'll need to apply for FMP (Foreign Medical Program) in order to be able to see some of the doctors here who handle VA disability. FMP will send you a form listing your disabilities, and that lets the doctors know they can go ahead, treat you, and bill the VA for service. I go to a great clinic who can help you get that process started. And the clinic also handles Tricare if you're still enrolled. You can even set up a PO Box through them, to have packages shipped to a Miami address and brought to Panama for you. Here's the link to their website. Under affiliates you'll see all of the different pharmacies/offices. As a retired military member, this is some of the most valuable info you'll get your hands on:  http://healthalliance.com.pa/

"This is the first military related question I've had, so I thought I'd share that now. 


"Okay, now...on to your questions.

"What I wish I brought with me? I didn't bring our Dodge Grand Caravan with us because we were still making payments on it. And you can't ship a vehicle that isn't completely paid off. I miss that van and its Knight Rider doors (you know the ones that open and close on their own with just the push of a button). 

"Other than that, I only miss family and goofy things like some of the food. I miss Boston Market, and any Mongolian Barbecue chain. I miss shopping at Target. But as far as actual physical items go, I can get almost everything I need here, or by ordering online. 

Marlene was freezing in El Valle, at night, without a jacket

"I guess I do wish we would've brought some of our jackets. We had really nice cold weather gear and we either gave it all away or donated it before leaving. We knew we wouldn't need it here. In some towns, like Boquete and El Valle de Anton, it gets chilly in the evenings. Plus, you never know when you, a family member, or a friend will be traveling back to the U.S. (or any other country) and a jacket might come in handy. So...bring at least a coat or two. You never know when you might need it. 

"What I wish I would have left behind? This is a tough one. I've been here almost 5 years, and when I first moved here I shipped my belongings. Now, 5 years later, I barely have anything that I brought with me. I just got sick of my things and gave them away. 

"I'm planning to write a post, really soon, about whether or not you should bring your stuff with you or just start fresh and buy everything new. I was definitely glad when my container arrived and everything I was familiar with showed up. It helped make me feel a little more at home. But it ended up costing around $7,000 to get it here. Could I have bought most of that stuff new with the $7,000? I don't know. I'll write about it soon and try to figure it out. 

"One thing you should keep in mind if you are planning to ship your belongings is that most homes here do not come with appliances. You'll find only bare walls. I shipped everything except my appliances because I figured it'd be easier to sell the house without gaping holes in the kitchen. So I did have to buy all of my appliances here in Panama.

"Did I ship a vehicle? No, I didn't. But many people do, and I think, depending on what area you decide to settle down in, that could be the one thing you wish you'd left behind. It really depends on your lifestyle though. I think if I were single (or just married with no kids) and I lived in the El Cangrejo area of Panama City, I'd rather not have a car. It's easy to get around by bus and taxi and finding parking in the city is a real pain. 

"You mentioned going to Cocle though, and that's a whole different story. Out there, you'd probably want a car, as that town is very spread out. Penonomé is a great place, but I'm not sure I'd want to try living there without a car. 

"Will I cover El Valle de Anton? Yes, absolutely. I definitely plan on covering El Valle. I'm hoping to get out there soon. It's a fun place to visit and a great place to live. You mentioned Altos del Maria and La Pintada, which are both supposed to be gorgeous, so I'll be heading their way soon too.

We had a blast the last time we were in El Valle de Anton

"Thanks again for your kind words, Art. I really do appreciate it."

Kerry wrote (via email):

"Hi Chris. Maybe this could be for the next Monday Q&A. I think I read somewhere in the site that when you moved over there you shipped a container of personal items. Could you possibly give us some details, like how you found the transport company, cost, etc? I think a lot of your readers would love to know. Thanks."

I replied:

"Hi Kerry, I did move a container full of my belongings, but that was almost 5 years ago. And it was such a whirlwind time of my life, as a move like this can be for most people. I honestly don't remember how I started researching a moving company. 

"I think I tried the bidding wars kind of websites where companies offer their services and you compare prices, which you have to be very careful about, as going with the lowest bidder is definitely not always the best plan. I did a bunch of research and somehow ended up using a company called Hercules at http://www.herculesvanlines.com/, which did its part in Ohio and all through the U.S., but once our stuff got to Panama, it was handled by a company called Panama International Packers http://www.ptypackers.com/

"I've heard that you're better off choosing a company in Panama and letting them find their U.S. connection (or Canadian or wherever else). Because it's the Panama side that'll understand how to get things into this country. 

A container ship making its way through the Panama Canal

"I remember paying around $7,000 total, maybe a little more, to complete the process. That was for the 30-foot container. I packed my own stuff though and then let the movers pack a few fragile things (or things I didn't pack well enough myself). In Columbus, Ohio, two guys showed up to finish packing and move everything out. They did it all (a two-story, 3-bedroom house) in one day. Usually, if they have to pack all your stuff (which is probably best if you can afford it as they'll know how to pack everything safely, and they'll supply the boxes and everything), it'll take them at least 2 days (one day to pack and one day to move). 

"I think it took almost two months to receive our belongings. It seemed like the container arrived in Panama fairly quickly, but then there was some sort of strike down at the ports, and no containers were being offloaded. I think we had to wait a week or two more just because of the strike. 

"I wish I could be more specific with all this, but it's just been so long since I moved, back before I ever considered writing about Panama."

Keith wrote (via comments on the PFR site):

"Hey Chris. I wonder if you could give a price listing for San Blas. That would be the ideal place for us."

I replied: 

"I'll definitely be headed to San Blas at some point, but I haven't been in a rush to get there because San Blas isn't a realistic retirement option. It's more like a vacation spot. You can't buy land in San Blas or open a business there, and from what I've heard, you can't even rent long term. 

"It's protected land, protected by the Kuna Yala indians. They don't mind people stopping by for a visit, and I've heard it's very beautiful, but it's not a place you should consider moving to. 

"Just move to Pedasi and take a boat over to Isla Iguana everyday. That would be cool."

Ernie wrote (via email): 

"Hello Chris, I am a 63 year old African American Nurse, considering relocating to Panama for retirement. I am single, I am not rich, and I don’t have a house to sell before moving there. I am willing to live like a Native.

"I guess what I’m asking of you is, is it safe for me? I noticed that when I communicate with an expat and they find out I’m Afro American, they try to discourage me. I don’t want to go over there and be mistreated. I can stay here and do that.

"I’ve read your wonderful blog and I think financially I can live there (in the right location) even though it would be tight. But I have to feel safe and feel welcomed. Right now I’m considering Chitre.

"I trust you will be honest with me and tell me if Panama is for me."

I replied:

"Hi Ernie, thanks for reaching out to me. Yes, of course Panama is great for you, or I should say it can be, you may not like it at all. I have a good friend who's African American. He's an ex-military guy and he's doing fine here (he does have retirement income though). You'll find a lot of African American, and black Panamanian people living here. I wouldn't think skin color would be an issue at all.

"Chitre is a great place. I like it a lot. You'll find some fast food restaurants there and a small theater…so you're not as cut off from the world as you'd be in some other places. 

Cruising Chitre's main drag

"Now, I know I wrote that skin color shouldn't be an issue, and I really don't think it is, but the truth is, there is racism here, just like everywhere else. I've noticed there's a little bit of racism going on between the lighter skinned Panamanians and the darker skinned. I've heard nicknames like "fulo" or "fula," which basically means blonde, passed around. YeYe (I think I'm spelling that right) is kind of a teasing name that means rich person, or like spoiled rich. My wife's coworkers used to call her "YeYe" when she'd bring in a nice bottled water brand or a strange soda from Riba Smith that no one had seen before. Of course, they were just joking with her.

"You'll also notice that terms are accepted here that you would never hear in the U.S. Most of the mini-supermarkets are run by Chinese business owners and you'll hear Panamanians walk into the store and yell, 'Hey China (like cheena), where's the soap?' Or, 'Hey China, how much does this cost?' Or, even worse because it means like little Chinese person, you might hear, 'Hey Chinito, how much does this cost?' The stores are referred to as chinos or chinitos by most people. But most Panamanians don't mean to be derogatory, it's just become an accepted term.

"So racism happens here, but it's not a big deal. I see a military related doctor here, and I think I'm the only white patient he has. Every time I go, I see a group of older African American guys, all of which speak English. Nice guys. I think most of them were either stationed here when the base was open, and came back because they love it, or were born in the canal zone. So, I wouldn't worry too much about the racism thing. And Chitre is a pretty big town. Eventually I'll head down to that area to write about it.

"You should definitely visit Panama first and make sure it's right for you. You'll get a gut feeling. Everyone does. Either you'll say, 'Yep, this is excellent.' Or you'll say, 'I'm not too sure, better look somewhere else.'" 

Lisa wrote (via comments on PFR site):

"Hi Chris. I'm wondering if dental work is affordable in Panama. My children are adults now and I am divorced and struggling to pay the many expenses of living in Connecticut.

"I wonder how realistic it would be for me to stay a month or longer in Panama and start some dental work (I don't speak Spanish).

"Advanced thanks, so glad I found your blog!"

I replied:

"Hi Lisa, excellent question. Aside from regular cleanings, which typically cost somewhere around $20, I haven't had to do any major dental work here in Panama. So, I have no first-hand experience with those costs. I know that it's supposed to be a lot more affordable here than back in the U.S. though. 

Like in Penonomé, even small towns usually have a dentist

"A blogger, and friend, Kris C. at www.ThePanamaAdventure.com wrote a great post about her husband's trip to the dentist at: http://blog.thepanamaadventure.com/2013/01/10/a-trip-to-the-dentist/

"Click on the link to read all about it. She covers how meticulous the doctor was and tells you the total costs associated with the procedure. Thanks so much for your comment and I hope it all works out for you (at a fraction of the cost) down here in Panama."

Robert wrote (via comments on the PFR site): 

"Which beaches have white sand?"

I replied:

"Hey Robert, you won't find a tone of them in Panama. Most of the Caribbean side will offer white beaches, but the places I can name off the top of my head are Bocas del Toro, San Blas, Contadora (the Pearl Islands), Isla Grande, Santa Clara, Isla Taboga, and the beaches around Pedasi (Playa Venao, Playita, Isla Iguana). I'm sure I'm missing plenty, but those are some of the most popular. Coronado has kind of a cool mix of white and black sand."

Jade wrote (via comments on the PFR site):

"Hello, so glad I found your blog! I'm a teacher in the U.S. and want to move to Panama with my 2-year-old son. I lived in Mexico before and loved it, but don't feel safe there currently. What is the reality of finding work to support my son and I in Panama? Is it 'single mother friendly?' Thank you so much!"

I replied:

"Hi Jade. So glad you found our site. If you survived down in Mexico, you should be fine down here. If you're a teacher, and you have your certification papers, or proof of your degree, that kind of stuff, you should be fine. Panamanian schools seem to always be searching for teachers, all over the country. Especially if you're comfortable teaching English.

"Most of the larger schools, especially the international ones, will require that you have the work license, which might be the somewhat tricky part for you, but it's not all that complicated, especially if you speak with an attorney who handles Immigration issues. One of the newer visas created by the Panamanian government to entice workers to come to Panama makes it a little easier. I can get you in touch with a great attorney if you'd like. Just let me know.

"As far as Panama being 'single mother friendly.' I think you'll be just fine, especially if you move to one of the more expat-friendly areas. I'm not sure if you're wanting to live in the city, but, as I've mentioned many times, Coronado, out in the interior and on the beach, would probably be perfect for you because there are 3 international schools in the vicinity and a lot of expats are already calling the place home. There, maybe Boquete, and of course parts of the city would make sense for you."

Stephana wrote (via comments on the PFR site):

"So, we are planning to venture to Panama to live. My youngest, 9 months, has absolutely no vaccinations of any kind and my 7-year-old had his first round done. I myself haven't had vaccinations since I was a child. Is it required to have all these vaccinations for my children to live in Panama? Not too worried about the school system; thinking about Homeschool rather."

I replied: 

"Hi Stephana. Honestly, you're supposed to get thee vaccines, but many people don't. I think the schools want you to have your children vaccinated, but they don't check your shot records. You have to get a medical form signed off by a doctor, and it's supposed to be the doctor who checks the shot records. 

"Oftentimes, the doctors don't even check it. Most doctors, as far as my experience with this has gone, will see your child and sign off on the form rather quickly. It's all just a formality, part of the process. And if you're going to homeschool your children, I wouldn't even worry about it. 

Matteo would be totally cool with never getting another vaccine...ever
(BTW, he gave me permission to use this photo)

"When you take your kids to the pediatrician, they might ask to see your shot records just to make sure your kids are up to date, but other than that, you probably won't hear much about the vaccinations. It's not like you'll be audited at home or reported by the doctor or anything."

Sarge wrote (via comments on the PFR site, after reading the bargain shopping article):

"Loved the read and those are my kind of shops. Why pay 15 dollars for a 10 dollar pair of jeans? Any dollar stores there, or similar selling items cheaply?" 

I replied:

"Exactly, Sarge. Yes, you'll find some dollar stores, but just like in the U.S., most of them sell a bunch of stuff that isn't quite a dollar. Here, the main dollar store is called Todo A Dolar, but todo ain't a dollar, lol. You'll find a lot of Chinese stores selling cheaper items too."

The Todo a Dollar in Aguadulce

Mia wrote (via comments on the PFR site):

"We're just moving in to the new area near Vacamonte, and are renting an unfurnished house. We only need the basics, and would much rather buy furniture from a cheaper place than Westland Mall or other malls. Do you know if there's anything near Vacamont, or do we have to go to Panama City to find furniture? We'd love to check local crafts people, but really need just the basics like a bed and a few tables to begin with." 

I replied:

"Hi Mia, I honestly don't know a lot about the Vacamonte area. I'll try to help the best I can, and if any readers are living in that area, feel free to help out in the comments below.

Hard to see in this photo (but on the road to Volcan you see a lot 
of handcrafted furniture for sale alongside the road

"I know there's a furniture store at Los Pueblos that's supposed to be fairly affordable, but that's here in the city. It's called Econo Precios. Here's a link to their website: 


I just did a quick search for mueblerias (furniture stores) in Arraijan and here's the list I found. I've been to the Rodelag near my house and they do have some furniture, usually just office stuff though like tables and desks, but it's worth checking out. Here's that list: 


Also, I'm not sure if you'd go for something used, but a good idea is to look on encuentra24 http://www.encuentra24.com/panama-en/classifieds. You'll usually find people selling all sorts of things there. Or look in the Facebook groups https://www.facebook.com/groups/313230052138979/ and https://www.facebook.com/groups/superofertaspanama/. There's a glass table with chairs going for $50 on there right now." 

Well, that's it for this Q and A session. Thanks for reading and I hope some of this helped.   

If you haven't already, check out our new website at www.PanamaForReal.com. It has a ton of info and enter your email address into the field below the red suitcase (in the top right corner of the page) to start receiving our bi-weekly newsletter. 



Thanks for reading,

Chris












Thursday, January 30, 2014

Real Bargain Shopping in Panama City, Panama

Good morning,

A couple of weeks ago, I wrote about the real cost of living in Panama and the real supermarket prices. After I published these articles, I got several emails and noticed several Facebook posts talking about how, after reading my articles, people were beginning to think that Panama isn't any less expensive than their hometowns. That was kind of the point of the article. It wasn't my intention to scare anyone, but I think it's important that people realize that Panama, just like anyplace else, is going to take a little bit of work. It's not as cheap as you might have heard. But if you look closely at the supermarket prices I laid out and read the cost of living report, you'll notice that I showed you not only local Panama brand prices, but also prices on things such as Oreos and Corona beer. Because you need to see what you'll spend if you buy imported goods.

How you shop and how you create your budget is completely your business. You might not care about living on a low budget. You might have a seemingly unlimited funds purse. But that's not the case for everyone. A good portion of people planning to escape to Panama, will have limited funds, a monthly allowance, that, if they go over, they'll be in trouble. So, as I've mentioned many times, it's important to abandon your current idea of shopping. You can't buy the brands you're used to if you want to save money here. And you can't simply clip coupons to keep buying what you're used to. You need to adopt a new shopping mentality and learn to shop like the locals.


Buying shoes at the La Onda in Villa Lucre will cost a lot less
than buying from the Jimmy Choo in Multiplaza

That's why, in this article, I'm going to introduce you to 3 bargain shopping playgrounds in and around Panama City. Sure, you could go to one of the malls. Multiplaza, the most upscale mall here, has great shopping. You'll see stores like Tiffany & Company, Cartier, Forever 21, Kenneth Cole, Zara, and Victoria's Secret. At Albrook Mall you'll find Gap, Gymboree, Banana Republic, etc. And even at Metro Mall you'll find Nautica, Claire's, Moose, Izod, and a handful of other stores you're familiar with. But that's not budget shopping. Sure, you might find incredible deals at random times in these stores, but I'm talking about your regular day-to-day shopping. 

Los Andes (Centro Comercial Los Andes) - This is one of my favorite shopping centers, and if you live in Las Cumbres or Villa Zaita, you're probably familiar with this area. It's a hodgepodge of faded colors and busy walkways as you'll find an eclectic mix of shops here. 


You'll find everything here, from clothing stores 
to electronics stores to a supermarket

Los Andes is located on Via Transistmica on the way to Las Cumbres. Getting there, especially if you're not familiar with Panama City streets, can be a bit tricky. Luckily, a Metro train station is being built right at the shopping center entrance, which should make getting there much easier. 

This new train station should make getting here much easier

My favorite store in Los Andes is Dorian's, which to me, is probably Panama's closest thing to a Marshalls or TJ Maxx. In this store you'll find some amazing deals, but be careful. Like Marshalls, you need to check your clothes before buying them. You'll find American brand names you'll recognize, but just check each item carefully. I've found several T-shirts I was interested in, only to have to put them back when I noticed a stain or a rip. 

See? Look at these prices

Marlene loves this place. If there's a Dorian's in the shopping center, she's there. You'll also find one in the Albrook mall, close to the movie theater. At stores like this, it's common to see prices as low as $1.99, $2.99, and $3.99, especially on T-shirts. Just make sure you try everything on first, as some clothes are built weird and fit super tight in the oddest of places. I think I've told you my experience with the jeans that gave me an instant wedgie. 

$6.99, $9.99...oh my!

Dorian's is also great for picking up the small things. If I'm going to the beach for the weekend and don't have flip flops, I'll go buy cheap ones from there, or if I need a new belt and don't want to spend a lot (I rarely dress up), I'll get one from Dorian's for somewhere between $5 and $10.

The first place in Panama where I found (bargain priced) size-12 shoes

Three other large, bargain department stores you'll find in Los Andes are El Titan (one of the best places to buy school supplies), El Costo, and El Campeón. In all of these places, you'll find clothing, shoes, makeup, office supplies, purses, hats, and even some home goods. You'll find fans, dishes, blankets, and other things of that nature. 

Another great bargain shopping store

If you have kids, you're sure to find great deals on children's clothes. I have to keep it real though. Oftentimes, the fabric is not the strongest. You get what you pay for, so the material will not be as good as what you'd get at Gymboree. Still, sometimes, especially with something like pajamas, it's nice to pick up a $5.99 pair rather than a $29.99 pair. Or a pair of $.49 underwear like you see in the photo below. 

Check out these prices on kids' underwear

And if you're artistic and like to sew your own clothes, you'll find a fabric store in Los Andes selling items at super low prices. 

Buy your clothes, or make your own

This place sells fabric that's great for clothes, uniforms, curtains, tablecloths, etc., and look at the prices: $1.49? $2.99? $1.99? You won't find prices like that at Multiplaza. 

No shortage of birthday party supply stores here

If you find yourself getting hungry at Los Andes, don't worry, as there's plenty of little restaurants and even a Wendy's on site. Plus, if you head up the stairs that are right next to Wendy's, there's even a little food court. You have to try one of the smoothies from the kiosk you see at the center of the food court. They're like $1.50 or $2.00. The prices vary depending on the flavor you choose, but you'll see banana, chocolate, strawberry, mango, cornflakes, the list goes on and on. 

Los Pueblos - 

One of my favorite places to shop, when I'm in a super-chill mood and don't mind the swarms of people and concentrated traffic I'll find when going there, is Los Pueblos. I mention this outdoor shopping mall often. Located in the Juan Diaz area, at the far end of Via España (opposite end of downtown Panama City), you'll know you arrived when you see the TGIF on the left hand side (you can also get there by traveling Ave. Domingo Diaz, it's right across the street from Metro Mall). 

You need to understand Los Pueblos for what it is, before you head out there. It's not a high-end mall where people are going to cater to your every need. It's not that at all. In fact, it's a hectic mess at times, especially on the weekends, as hordes of people descend upon the shops, all looking for the best deals. So be ready to rub elbows, shove your way through crowds, and stand in lines to get to the real bargains. 

A police trailer is located right at its center

If you're ready for this, you'll find a ton of stores at Los Pueblos, stores like Saks (no relation to the 5th Avenue store), which is a lot like Dorian's. The Saks in Los Pueblos is another of my favorite stores. I buy Silver Jack brand blue jeans for about $15 a pair (sometimes on sale for $10). Again, just check the clothes before purchasing them, as my wife recently bought a pair of pants that was missing the zipper. 

The best toy store in the city (on the right)

The Felix Outlet at Los Pueblos is one of the best toy stores in Panama. One side of the store is devoted to only toys, while the other has clothes. You'll also find an Estampa, La Onda, Oca Loca, which is the store I always associate with great Halloween shopping, Gran Morrison, Conway, El Campeón. You definitely have your pick of bargain shops.

You'll find clothing stores, household good stores, a Do It Center (do it yourself store), lighting stores, electronics stores, shoe stores, and even a couple of casinos. Los Pueblos is home to a Payless Shoes, a DDP outlet store, Adams, and lots of places to eat lunch.

A small pizza and a soda for only $3.99

Los Pueblos is where I go whenever I need to pick up a cheap charger for my cell phone or to buy covers or any other phone accessories. And it's a great place to get fresh coco water or pipa. This guy in the photo below will grab a coconut from his stash, slam it down onto a spike, then pour the fresh juice into an instant refrigeration machine and out into a brand new bottle. It's delicious.

Fresh pipa!

If you walk the shops of Los Pueblos, you're sure to find a deal. Again, always try on clothes before buying them. I piled up maybe 20 shirts the first time I visited here, all right around $1.99. I went nuts and since they were all XL size, I was fairly sure they'd fit. At the last second, I decided to go ahead and try some on. Out of the 20 shirts, only 3 fit. The rest hugged my body a little too snugly for comfort. When things are on sale at Los Pueblos, it's almost like being on a shopping spree. A hundred dollars seems like it'll last forever in some  stores. 

Lastly, on the subject of Los Pueblos, I have to mention that this is one of the best places to go to buy party supplies and piñatas. Even for bachelor and bachelorette parties. Watch out though. I've written about this before, long ago, in a blog post. 

These were staring my kid right in the face at the cash register

I went with my daughter once to get a piñata and had no idea what was in store. There, hanging from the ceiling, right next to the Disney princess castle piñata, was a group of butt naked piñatas, very well endowed dude piñatas too. These bachelor/bachelorette party piñatas are hung (pun intended) right next to the other kiddy kind of piñatas. 

See? I told you so! Try explaining that to your kid

I was half expecting my daughter to yell out, "Daddy, I want the princess with the black bikini." 

"Umm, that's not a bikini babe."

El Dorado

On Tumba Muerto, near Bethania, is the area called El Dorado. You'll know you're there when you see the big circular cake and smoothie shop at the corner of he parking lot and a casino on the other end. Farther back in the lot is the shopping center itself, and next to it is a KFC and Taco Bell.

You know you're in El Dorado when you see this building

El Dorado seems to be most famous for its electronics shops. No matter where you go to get your phone fixed or your Blu-ray player fixed, or your Playstation fixed, if the technician can't handle the job, he or she will tell you to take it to El Dorado. They can fix just about anything there. 

I got this rubber cell phone cover in El Dorado for $5

It's also a great place to shop. El Dorado is still on the lower end of the shopping scale, but it's rapidly improving. The mall management team is cleaning the mall up nicely and it's actually starting to look like the other malls in Panama City. At El Dorado you'll find a Conway furniture store, which is one of the best furniture stores in Panama. You'll also find a Saks, a Gran Morrison, a Rey supermarket, and many other small shops. 

This mall is starting to clean up nicely

I set out one day to find a suit for a wedding. I used to wear a suit every day back in the U.S., but I never wear one here. Who wants to wear a suit in Panama? Well, I've lost a lot of weight since moving here and none of my suits fit me. I looked ridiculous trying them on. I tried to find a fancy getup in Los Andes, but it's not the best place for that. I tried a few places actually, and I didn't want to spend much, because I knew I'd probably wear the suit once and never put it on again. I decided to check out the mall at El Dorado, and I'm glad I did. I found a suit for only $49.99 at the RM.

Very affordable suits at the RM in El Dorado

Plus, they had great prices on accessories. Shoes were inexpensive, belts, shirts...I got everything I needed in one store, after driving around all over the place. Now, I know this sounds like a commercial for them, lol, but it's not. The quality of the suit I bought was okay. I'm not sure it would've lasted through the long walks and varying temperatures I encountered in Chicago, but it definitely worked well for the wedding. 

Shirts, two for $12.99

If you want to find real bargains, don't just stick to the enclosed mall though. Make sure you check out the shops that surround the mall. You'll find tons of little electronic stores and other cool places. El Dorado even has a bowling alley. Plus, if you're into the kinky stuff, you'll find a couple of sex toy/video stores in El Dorado too. You can see one on the left in the following photo. 

It's on the left, right next to the tree...I know you're looking for it!

Hopefully, after reading this article, you'll realize there are some real finds out there, if you just get out and immerse yourself in real Panama living. Don't be afraid to go out and shop like locals because you're not going to save money shopping in the higher-end malls. 

If you're wondering about Avenida Central (down by Casco Viejo), yes, that's a bargain shopping destination, but I was trying to put shops on this list where you're not likely to have to finagle your way into a good deal. These aren't tourist shops, not really. Avenida Central kind of is. In Los Andes, Los Pueblos, and El Dorado, the price is right there on the object. You don't have to ask what the price is and try to figure out whether you're getting the real deal or the gringo inflated price.

If you live in any of the small towns in Panama's interior, you might not have a choice but to bargain shop, as it's rare to find the bigger chains outside of Panama City (except maybe in Chitre, Santiago, and David). That's a major factor in why it's much cheaper to live outside of Panama City. Sometimes you're forced to shop and live like the local townsfolk (unless you're out there cheating and ordering everything online...come on...we all do it from time to time). 

Oh one more thing. I'm sure some people are going to write to tell me that you have to be careful in the areas I mentioned. That is true. Just like anywhere else, if you shop in Los Andes, Los Pueblos, or El Dorado, don't flash your money around. Know how much cash you have before you set out so you don't have to pull out a wad of bills on the sidewalk. 

Police are everywhere, especially in Los Pueblos and Los Andes, so I wouldn't say these areas are unsafe. But you have to know that if you're shopping where there are true bargains, you're shopping with other people who are shopping on a limited budget. So don't be flashy, and it's probably better to shop during the day than at night in these outdoor shopping centers. 

Thanks so much for reading,

Chris

Don't forget to check out http://www.PanamaForReal.com and don't forget to "like" us on Facebook here or "like" and "share" our Youtube channel here

Monday, January 27, 2014

A New Video for Expat Kids

Hello again,

This is going to be a really short post. I'm not sure if I've mentioned it here before, but my kids were so excited to be a part of Panama For Real, that Marlene and I were thinking it would be great to give them their own project. As much as we love including the whole family in our videos when we travel, we don't want the location reports to become Powers family vacation videos. So, how could we get them more involved?

Our new video even shows you the words 
to the Spanish version of Happy Birthday

Well, after reading through tons of emails from young families relocating to Panama, we figured out the perfect project for our kids. Oftentimes young business owners, with online companies, are content with being virtually present, meaning it doesn't matter where they are physically. So they plan an early retirement, chillin' out beachside while they conduct business on a laptop. That, or young people are often brought to Panama to assist a Panamanian business. This means, the spouse and sometimes even young children are kind of forced into an overseas move. That can be downright scary. Can you imagine? At a young age being told that you're going to leave your family and friends and go to a country where everyone speaks a different language? 

The kids had a blast making this new video
(Victoria and Nico on the right)

Well, that's the reason we started Kidpats. Estefania (11), Victoria (9), Matteo (5), and Nicolas (5) have been living that reality. They've had it a little bit easier with Marlene's family being here, but the girls didn't even speak Spanish when we moved here (the boys were infants and didn't speak much of anything at all). They've learned to make the best of this new lifestyle and our Kidpats series is aimed at helping other kids do the same. The idea is that you'll be able to sit your kids at the computer and let them see how our kids are handling a life in Panama. 

We just put our second video on the website, yesterday, and I wanted to share it with you guys. This one is all about birthday parties in Panama. You'll find our first video, with the kids hanging out at Parque Omar, on the site as well. We really hope you enjoy these. The kids are bugging me to do another one, so we should have others out soon. 

For some reason blogger is giving me a hard time embedding the video here in this blog, but if you follow the link below, it'll take you right to the page of our site that has the video. You can also see it on Youtube. Here's the link to the new Kidpats video:

http://www.panamaforreal.com/kidpats/kidpats-birthday-parties-in-panama/

Thursday, January 23, 2014

10 Things You Will Hate About Panama (and why you should learn to love 'em)

Good morning everyone,

I hope wherever you are this day, you're staying warm (and for those of you in Panama I hope you're staying cool). Today's post just had to happen. I hear every single day that people are tired of the hype all over the Internet about how perfect Panama is. Most of that is coming from people selling conference tickets and houses in Panama. So, I just had to do it. I had to write about the 10 things you're definitely going to hate if you move to Panama. 

Now, before anyone jumps down my throat, you should know me fairly well by now. This won't be a negative post. I love Panama and for every single not-so-great situation I describe, you'll discover there's something really great going on to counter it. However, there are things that will bother you about Panama. It's a fact. I'm sure there are things bothering you in Kansas City, Quebec, Chicago, Miami, London, Helsinki, Las Vegas, or in Caracas. Wherever you're from, I bet you could put together one hell of a top 10 things you'd hate list. Here's mine on Panama. This is in no specific order. 

1. Motorcycle drivers create their own lanes - 

This blew my mind when I first moved here, mostly because I almost ran a couple of these drivers over. It's crazy. In the U.S., motorcycles have to stay in the appropriate lane, just like any other vehicle. Here (and I thought this was illegal until I noticed many cops on motorcycles doing the same thing) motorcycles swerve in and out of traffic, and drive up the narrow aisle between lanes.


See? Like this!

I sat in traffic one day on a street that was two lanes going in the same direction (one way street). A young couple, walking hand-in-hand, looked both ways before crossing the street. They did everything right. Then, as they crossed, suddenly a guy on a motorcycle came flying up that space between our lanes and screeched to a halt. I mean his back tire came up off the ground as he somehow managed to stop before slamming into this couple. The driver shook his head and threw his hands up in the air as if it were the couple's fault. I didn't even think it was possible to get run over by a motorcycle. Really? That was a close one though. 

Beware, when driving, checking your blind spot in Panama also means making sure there aren't any motorcycles creeping up, like the one you see in the photo below, just chillin' at this person's back bumper.


This guy is just sitting in someone's blind spot

Why should you learn to love it? Well, when you're waiting for your pizza to arrive, you'll be glad your delivery guy is able to get through the traffic quickly. 

Plus, if you happen to own a motorcycle, you'll be able to almost completely avoid traffic. Hmm, maybe I should learn to ride a motorcycle. 

2. Everything shuts down on certain holidays

What does this mean? Panama is full of very religious people, of many different religions. Quite a few of the business, especially in Panama City, are run by Chinese or Jewish business owners. This means that on any Chinese holiday or Jewish holiday, getting things done may be difficult. I set out one day to do some clothes shopping with my family, and my mother-in-law kind of shouted out as we were leaving that it was a Jewish holiday. I heard her, but didn't think much about it. 

A few miles down the road, when we pulled into the Los Pueblos outdoor shopping center, I noticed the gates down and the doors closed on most businesses, so many that it didn't really make sense to walk around and shop. 

And it's the same with the Catholic Holy Week. You might want to run out to the mall to pick something up and find that it's closed down or closed early due to a religious holiday observance. 

So, it's a big deal sometimes when it's a normal day for you, but you can't get anything done. It's like trying to get your favorite chicken sandwich from Chick-fil-A on a Sunday. Ain't gonna happen. 

What's the good side of this? You'll always find something open on your holiday, whether you're Catholic or Jewish or it's the Chinese New Year. Your options may be limited, but you can still get things accomplished. 

3. Snakes and bugs - 

This is the tropics. Not only is it hot and muggy, but you will see lots of bugs, and quite possibly snakes and even scorpions. You might find less of these pesky creatures in Panama City, but they are here in and around the city. And I'm sure you'll find much more out in the interior. 


Found this spider in our bathroom

A friendly writer living high up in one of the mountain communities in Panama's interior, Rhonda, recently wrote about finding a scorpion at her front door one morning, stinger up and ready to attack. Her cats were just messing around, swatting at it, no care in the world. I've never seen a scorpion here, but I've found very large spiders in my house. The spider in the photo above was found in my bathroom.

In our last house, my wife woke up early in the morning to use the bathroom and through her tired, blurred vision, barely noticed a snake slithering around near the toilet. I've written about this before. She screamed, ran out of the bathroom, and slammed the door behind her. I rolled out of bed thinking someone had broken into the house or something. Marlene warned me to stay back because there was a huge snake in the bathroom that might be poisonous. I'm a wimp when it comes to snakes, so I was more than willing to back off. 


This think looks huge close up

When the firefighters and police showed up, they had a big laugh when they found the snake. Looks huge in the photo above, but it was really this big. Look at the photo below.


This is what it looked like to the cops. 
That little thing that looks like a dog turd...that was our snake

What's the good side? It's the tropics! This means wonderfully warm (genuinely hot) weather. Forget the bugs! If you don't like bugs or other pests, get a cat. Or get a dog. Hell, the spiders eat the mosquitos.

4.  There's no MLS (Multiple Listing Service/System) in Panama -

This can be frustrating when you're searching for a home, or when your preferred real estate agent is searching for you. You won't find one-stop shopping when it comes to apartments, condos, or homes in Panama. People have set up websites, some really great ones, to try and roundup some listings, but it's difficult to get a real finger on the pulse of the real estate action going on across the entire country. That's why you'll notice most agents stick to small areas, where they can truly understand what's available.

What's the good side? You're still able to find great deals in the towns you love, as long as you get out on foot and do a little bit of searching. If you visit, for example, Penonomé, absolutely fall in love with the place, and decide you'd like to talk to a local real estate expert or go directly to the owner of a house you see for sale, you can do that. You can do it without having to worry that 20 people are online about to pounce on that home. You might not find such a large audience if trying to sell a home, and as a buyer you won't see all the cards spread out on the table, but when you find a gem, you have much more of a chance of getting your hands on it. 

5. Littering is still a problem in some areas

I've heard from many expats visiting Panama that they were shocked by the amount of garbage on the ground in some areas. This is a problem. It bothers Panamanians just as much as it bothers visitors and the causes vary from people just being careless and tossing their milk carton out of their car window to not enough garbage trucks on the street.

In some neighborhoods, you'll see big unofficial garbage collection points, that are just flat out nasty. You'll see dogs picking at bones and flies buzzing around. Did I paint a gross enough picture for you? I don't want you to be shocked when you get out and visit the non-touristy areas. 


This is nasty!

The good news is this is a problem the Panamanian government is well aware of. More trucks have been purchased, new programs have been put in place, and it seems that they're genuinely trying to clean up the streets. I've seen signs posted reminding residents to not throw their garbage in some of these unofficial collection points.


Recycling bins on the Cinta Costera

I've seen recycling bins in parks and other places that get a lot of foot traffic. I was just at the Cinta Costera the other night, a fun place to hang out along the water, and I noticed the recycling bins in place. Even in the smaller towns in the interior, I've started to see recycling bins. At the town center in Penonomé, the little park there in front of the church had bins in place. That's awesome. 


The Penonomé town center

Many Panamanians have taken it upon themselves to help clean up the issue. Just yesterday morning, I heard on The Breakfast Show with Gerry D (which can be heard Mon-Fri, from 7am-10am, on Cool 89.3 FM or at their website www.pbcpanama.com), a fellow named Roba Morena talking about an upcoming recycling fair. He said his group collects nearly 10,000 pounds of recyclables per year. You can read about the upcoming fair, which is actually this Sunday, Jan. 26, at the Banco General parking lot in Villa Lucre from noon until 5pm, at http://www.robamorena.com/feriayoreciclo/

So, in some areas you might still see trash on the ground, but at least you know people are working on cleaning it up.

6. This place might not be as affordable as you've heard

Let's just say it like it is. A lot of companies are hyping up Panama, telling you that it's the most affordable place to base your retirement. You're being told that you can find super-affordable rentals, you can buy food for half the cost of what you'd spend in the U.S., and utilities are crazy cheap. 

Panama City is definitely not the cheap retirement haven it used to be. It's hard to find a low-cost rental in a desirable location. Like most major cities in the world, Panama City is a popular destination, right on the water, and living downtown can cost a lot. In that same area, electricity will be high, and grocery costs will probably be a lot like what you're used to, even more expensive for some items if they're imported. 


Life in the high-rent district will cost you

However, this doesn't mean you can't retire to Panama on a shoestring budget. You absolutely can. You just have to know how to do it. 

You have to face the facts about Panama City. It's expensive now. Expect to pay at least $1,200 to rent a decent place in the city (and that's on the low end). Out in the interior, it's still very possible to rent a place for under $500 a month. I'm not going to go into this too much, because I just covered it in my article The Real Cost of Living in Panama, which you can find by clicking here

Panama is not like the U.S. You won't walk into a Target or a Walmart and buy everything you need right there in one spot. You will find places like El Machetazo and Discovery Center, where a variety of items are on the shelves, but I'm telling you, warning you, if you rely on one store to get everything you need, you're going to spend a small fortune.


Buy local brands to save money

You have to learn to shop like Panamanians. This means buying your fruit and vegetables at the Saturday market or any other fresh market around town. If you live in one of the small towns where fish is brought out straight from the docks each morning, buy your fish from the street side vendors. With a family of 6, I buy certain things at PriceSmart (member shopping, like Costco) like meat and juice, but I buy toilet paper at the regular supermarket. If you learn what to do and what not to do, you can live in Panama on a fairly low budget. You can read my article about PriceSmart shopping here


Try to shop at the farmer markets

I put a Real Supermarket Prices article together, which you can read here, and afterwards I got a lot of email responses about how Panama didn't seem any less expensive than peoples' home cities. The reason for this is I tried to put items on the list that people would be familiar with, so they could see what those prices are like here. I also tried to put some Panamanian brands on the list. You can buy a $5.39 pack of Chips Ahoy, or you can spend $1.50 on a similar local brand. As I mention in most articles, you can't buy all imported goods if you want to save money. 

Water is usually very inexpensive in Panama and so is trash collection, but electricity...wow. It totally varies. I've heard a lot of people tell me their electric bill is well under $100 per month. My sister-in-law is shocked if hers goes over $30, but she's rarely home and never uses an air conditioner. If you run your AC all day, and you live in a pricier area, you could see bills of $300 per month or more. I know because I've received bills that high. 

Living in a place like Boquete, Cerro Azul, El Valle de Anton, or Volcan, you'd rarely use the AC, so your electric bill would be very low. However, if you're living in the penthouse suite in a Marbella condo and running the AC all day (Panama City is hot), expect to pay more for electricity.


You'd probably never use an air conditioner in Cerro Punta


All that said, if you can learn to live like a local, you can still save a lot of money retiring in Panama.

7. Customer service isn't great (for the most part) -  

If there's anything that will probably drive you nuts about living in Panama, it will be the general lack of a good customer service mentality. I'm really into customer service. I always have been, so it bothers me a lot when I'm paying for a service and someone rolls his or her eyes at me, or just refuses to help...it's pretty aggravating. 

I've always found customer service to be a serious issue in Panama, but I'm noticing now, that it seems to be about the area you're in. It's unfortunate, but true, that if you go to a popular restaurant near a lower income area, the service just seems worse. Then, you go to the same restaurant in an upscale mall, and it's a totally different experience. 


Tantalo in Casco Viejo has great food and great service

When I taught customer service techniques here in Panama awhile back, I was told by many of my Panamanian students, that the reason they didn't provide great service is that tips are always low. I can see how that would be a factor. People are used to paying very little in Panama, so I imagine the tips are quite low as well. I think a lot of it has to do with employers not making the employees feel like they have a vested interest in the company. They're getting paid a very low salary (many times by foreign employers who came here to open up shop and save money), they clock in and out, many work more than 5 days a week, and they go home just to do it all over again. You'll rarely see sales initiatives in place or rewards for employees. That's a shame.


Keila and Eliecer provided outstanding service at
the Do It Center in Villa Lucre

This means great things for us though. We have the opportunity to completely change things. As customers, we can help by smiling, being friendly to the person serving our food, leaving a fair tip, and making sure we've actually told the server that we appreciate their great attitude and a job well done. Doing that, we might be able to change the poor customer service mentality. 

As business owners, you can lead the way by providing great service yourself and teaching yoru employees how to do the same. Motivate your employees. Make them feel a part of something bigger. And for cryin' out loud, if you come here to open up a business, be a good employer. Treat your employees with respect and pay them more than the bare minimum. You'll probably still save money. Just sayin'.

8. Construction noise in the city

This might not be much of an issue in the interior, except maybe parts of the Pan-American Highway being reduced to one lane because of construction, but in the city, construction noise is always around. 


Construction work in Obarrio

So much is happening in Panama, all over the place, and with all the work going on, you're bound to be annoyed by some of the construction noises. And if the sound of the jackhammers, wrecking balls, and other equipment doesn't bother you, you might hate, or get a kick out of, the constant whistling and yelling you'll hear every time a pretty woman walks by the site, as work halts and workers step to the ledge to check out the action down below. 


When one beautiful woman passes, one guy whistles, and no less
than 20 workers risk their lives to peak out at the street below

The good news is it's quite entertaining to see everything halt, like a Broadway musical number is about to begin, and see the guys yelling their praises to the passing women. Also, it's good to know that so much progress is happening. I'm excited to see what new businesses will spring up around the city. There's so much change going on all the time. It's exhilarating. 

9. Traffic -

If you've read anything about Panama, I'm sure you've read about the traffic issues. Panama City is gridlock traffic during all rush hours, which is a good portion of the day. Trying to leave the house anytime between 7am-10am in the morning, and 4pm-8pm in the evening, is a bad idea. Just avoid it if you can. Unlike any other place I've lived, there aren't many shortcuts here. You can't really dodge the traffic because if there's an alternate route, everyone else already knows about it.


The Cinta Costera at 5pm

Living in the interior, you might avoid most of this traffic. Unless it's carnaval time, any other holiday, or a long weekend. Many Panamanians escape the city whenever they can by heading to the interior. So, if it's Holy Week, and you want to get to Coronado, you might find yourself in some pretty heavy traffic on the highway. We went to David during one of the long holiday weekends (I can't remember which one). We avoided all traffic headed out there, had a great time (did the Volcan video which you can see here) and all was great...until the drive home.


The Corredor Sur at 8am

We left early in the morning, before sunrise, to head home, knowing everyone else would be driving back to Panama City this day too. We were flying home, no traffic at all, but then decided to stop for breakfast. That 30-40 minute break was a big mistake. By the time we got to the entrance to El Valle, traffic was bumper to bumper all the way back to the city.

So how is any of this good? Well, when you stay in Panama City during any of these long holiday weekends, you find the streets open up with hardly any traffic. It's amazing. Everyone has gone to the interior. 


The Corredor Norte at 9am

And as far as the daily traffic grind, again, things are getting better. The Metro trains are scheduled to start running this year, many of the buses have been taken off the road, and hopefully traffic will start to ease up. If traffic congestion really bothers you, just move to one of the small towns in the interior where a lot of people write bikes. That would be great.

10. Getting things accomplished, step by step by step - 

I'm sure you've all heard of the mañana attitude (where things move very slowly, especially anything relating to the government) here in Panama, but there's one other issue you might notice when trying to get anything accomplished. Several employees will be involved in whatever it is you're trying to get done, whether it's buying a cheeseburger, getting a work license, or anything else. 

For example, for one of the jobs I had here, I needed to go get a copy of my police record. I went to the building that issues these, to make sure I could prove that I was an upstanding citizen. I stood in line at one desk, to request the form I needed. When I made it to the counter, the lady told me I needed to go to a different area of the building to pay the small fee I was required to pay (I think it was only $1). Then, I needed to go back to the original lady to get the form stamped. I kept thinking, "Why can't I just pay her, have her stamp my paper, and be on my way?" It doesn't work like that here.

At one of the social security hospitals here, I stood in line with my wife to explain what we were there to do. We were given a form and told to take it to the doctor. So we went to his office, knocked on the door, interrupted his conversation with a patient, just so he could sign the form (I guess agreeing to see us), then we had to go pay at a cashier window, then go back to the first counter...you get the point, and this was all before actually getting seen by the doctor. Once the doctor prescribed our medicine (after the exam), we had to do a similar process to get the meds (including visiting the pharmacy first to make sure they had them before going to pay and then returning to get the medicine). 

For the final step in getting my cedula, I had to go to an office on the second floor of the Tribunal Electoral office to turn in my paperwork. Then, they sent me downstairs to pay. At that point I got a little bit lost. I'd paid and couldn't figure out what to do next. I got into the wrong line before I was told I needed to go back upstairs to the original office I'd been in. So I did. They did what they had to do and then sent me back downstairs to get in line to have my photo taken. Then I was told I needed to come back another day to pick up my ID card at a completely different desk.

For a great example of all this, read my steps to getting a Panamanian driver's license here.  

This might all seem a little bit crazy, and I'll never agree that it's efficient, but when you think about it, it's all a big checks and balances system. If four people are handling pieces of the process, it's a lot harder for one person to take a payoff and speed up the process for certain friends or crooked businesspeople. It ensures everyone is equal.

Plus, it helps lower Panama's unemployment rate. Panama is great at making sure its people have jobs. I'm not kidding. I counted 14 employees at the Burger King in Costa del Este. And only 3 customers at the time. This is great for the employees and makes the job a lot easier for them. Now, 14 might be overkill, but I can tell you when I was a teenager, and only 2 of us were on shift to man the front counter and the drive thru window at the ice cream joint where I worked, I would've loved to see 12 coworkers respond for backup. 

Bonus #11.   Your DVD player might not work

If you haven't already switched to streaming all of your movies on Netflix or any other online venue, you might still have a DVD player. I do. 

When I moved to Panama, I had a container shipped with all of my belongings, from Columbus, Ohio, to Panama. There was no way I was leaving my 500+ DVD collection behind. Since it took awhile for my stuff to arrive, and I wanted a second DVD player anyways, I bought one here too.

If you don't already know, DVDs sold in the U.S. have a region 1 code built into them. Canada falls under region 1 as well. Panama is region 4. I didn't know all this when moving here. What does that mean to you?

If you have a DVD player that's purchased, for example, in the U.S., it's going to play region 1 DVDs, but unless it's a multi-region player (many are nowadays) it won't play discs from any other region. 

So, when I bought my DVD player in Panama, it was a region 4 player and it wouldn't play any of the discs I brought with me from the States. I figured out what the problem was and took the player back to the store. I asked for a multi-region player. The attendant assured me the next one I bought was multi-region. It said it was on the box. Still, it would only play the movies I'd purchased in Panama, not the ones I brought from the U.S.

I took the player back to the store again, and was sent to some little room where they could test it. I brought a region 1 disc with me, and the guy was unable to get it to play. Then, I saw him play around with it a little bit, he punched a code into the remote control, and bam, it started playing my region 1 disc. I went home, happy to be able to finish my season of Friday Night Lights.

Everything was fine for awhile, until my container arrived and I set up my surround sound DVD system from the U.S. It wouldn't play my Panamanian DVDs. Same issue as before, but the other way around. I remembered the guy putting a code into the remote control at the store, so I started doing a little bit of digging around online. I found that almost all players can be unlocked so that they play discs from any region. It's a very easy process.

You really just have to go to Google and type in "How to unlock my Panasonic 57R43." Of course you'll need to substitute what I typed with the make and model of your player. I used the following site, just now, to find the code for my Philips DVP5990 player. http://www.videohelp.com/dvdhacks?dvdplayer=Philips+DVP5990&hits=50&Search=Search

You'll see on that page, if the link works, that the step by step instructions for unlocking my player, in other words making it region free, are as follows:


Press the Setup button
Select the Preference Tab
Press 1,3,8,9,3,1
Press up/down key to select "0"
And hit menu to exit. 

Sometimes you'll have to open and close your disc tray and power off the player for a certain amount of time. Different players have different instructions. Hopefully this will help you be able to once again use the DVD player you paid good money for. I think this works for Blu-Ray players too. I tried with a PS3 and couldn't figure it out. 


I typed in Philips and the model number you see here 
(all except the /37 at the end)

Well, guys, I hope you didn't find my post too negative. That truly wasn't my intention. I just wanted to clear the air and be honest about some of the things I've seen and heard lately online and on the social media sites. Panama is not a perfect place. No place is. But I love this place and hope you will too. 

If you haven't already, check out our new website at www.PanamaForReal.com. It has a ton of info. Enter your email address into the field below the red suitcase (in the top right corner of the page) to start receiving our bi-weekly newsletter.

And check our Facebook page at: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Panama-For-Real/418977398194595

And our Youtube channel at: http://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6N7Ih2bjD0FjOBnDg_-Flg

Thanks for reading,

Chris